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Revitalizing Breadfruit

Revitalizing Breadfruit

"The Ho'oulu ka 'Ulu Project.“

Ho'oulu ka 'Ulu is a project to revitalize 'ulu (breadfruit) as an attractive, delicious, nutritious, abundant, affordable, and culturally appropriate food which addresses Hawai'i's food security issues. It is well known that Hawai'i imports about 90% of its food, making it one of the most food insecure states in the nation. Additionally, since the economic downturn of 2008, many families lack access to affordable and nutritious food. We believe that breadfruit is a key to solving Hawaii's food security problems.

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My Conversion to Liking Breadfruit

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Prize-winning breadfruit tart at the inaugural Breadfruit Festival.

When I arrived at an ethnobotanical garden near the town of Captain Cook, on the big island of Hawai’i, to attend an inaugural Breadfruit Festival in late September, I had my doubts about this nutrient-packed fruit that I’d never tried before.

My skepticism was based on my preliminary reporting. Before my visit, I’d talked to one of the world’s leading experts, the Breadfruit Institute’s Director, Diane Ragone PhD., who had told me she hadn’t cared for it when she first tried it. I’d learned from the Breadfruit Institute’s own website about the difficulties faced by Captain Bligh in fulfilling his mission of introducing breadfruit plants to the Caribbean (during the infamous mutiny on the bounty, the mutineers tossed the trees overboard). I’d even found a discussion on the gardening website GardenWeb under lists of the “five WORST tropical fruits,” with one writer pronouncing breadfruit “nauseous.”

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Diane Ragone, PhD., Director of the Breadfruit Institute.

But when I arrived at the festival that day, my conversion began. Fragrant smoke rose from a fire circle where breadfruit roasted on burning coconut shells. (Watch video here) Women mashed the fruit with a pestle to make breadfruit poi, a traditional porridge-like food. The marvelously vivacious Chef Olelo pa’a Faith Ogawa, a Hawaii-born private chef, demonstrated several recipes to a rapt audience, passing out samples which were appreciatively wolfed down. A long line of people waited patiently that day to sample a special breadfruit lunch.

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Chef Olelo pa’a Faith Ogawa, a Hawaii-born private chef, doing a cooking demonstration at the Breadfruit Festival.

I’d bought a ticket to try a half dozen of the dishes entered into the cooking contest. To my surprise, several of them were delicious.

The one that comes immediately to mind was a recipe for Ulu Tart, (ulu is the Hawaiian word for breadfruit,) which was made with two cups of cooked breadfruit, one cup of fresh coconut milk, Lehua honey, and a macadamia nut crust. It was superb – though the breadfruit itself was pretty much disguised by the coconut milk and honey.

I also tried a breadfruit casserole made with three different kinds of cheese as well as a very unusual ulu salad with cucumbers and dill, which, along with the tart, was also a prize-winner. I had the pleasure of meeting the person who came up with the salad recipe after he accepted his award for it.

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Nader “Nanoa” Parsia holding up his awards for breadfruit dishes.

His name was Nader “Nanoa” Parsia, who grew up in Persia before it became Iran. In the many years that he has lived on the islands, he told me he’d come to embrace the cooking and foods of his adopted home Hawaii. Smiling widely, he said “Some people have been baptized. Today, I’ve been ‘ulu-cized!”

I felt the same way: I became a breadfruit believer that day too and greatly admire the work that Diane Ragone and her colleagues at the Breadfruit Institute as well as the Hawaii Homegrown Food Network are doing to introduce people to this nutritious food, particularly at a time when so many people are hungry. Mahalo for introducing me to the nutritious fruit of these productive trees. I only wish I could have brought one of the beautiful specimens that were for sale that day home with me to California.


Julia Flynn Siler is the author of the forthcoming history of Hawai'i, “Lost Kingdom,” which will be published in January of 2012. Please visit www.juliaflynnsiler.com for more information.

[Editors note: In November author Julia Flynn Siler wrote an important article about breadfruit and our 2011 Breadfruit Festival for the Wall Street Journal. It was a wonderful opportunity to spread the word about the value and potential of breadfruit, but unfortunately the article had a decidedly negative tone -- partly due to the editing by WSJ editors. We asked Julia if she would write something more consistent with her experience of the Festival for our readership. This article is adapted from her entry about the Breadfruit Festival in her personal blog]


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